Saddle Replacement- properly fitted saddle made from desired material. Many folks with solid top guitars like to have two (and some even three) different height saddles to counteract seasonal effects on action. Saddles for under saddle pickup equipped guitars must be especially well fitted for a balanced electrified sound.
Bridge Reglues- removal, cleaning the joint and replacement of loose bridge, refit pins and saddle if necessary. Bridge joint failure is not uncommon even in instruments of high quality, especially considering the high tension it is placed under.
Bridge Replacement- in the event a bridge is warped beyond reuse, severely cracked or previously shaved, an exact fit bridge must be fabricated and installed. I have not had good experiences with production replacement bridges as the pin holes and slot location do not always match the existing instrument (I wonder if these manufacturers know who they are…).
Bridge Pad Repair- overlay just to correct pin holes or removal and replacement to correct bridge pad failure or warped top. Replacement requires removal of the bridge. I use only the best quartersawn maple and rosewood dimensioned for an exact fit.
Cracks and Loose Braces- cleaning and stabilizing loose braces. Cracks are cleated and sometimes splined and then touched up. This is very important for stability and even tone.
Pickguard Replacement- older acoustic guitars such as Martins, Gibsons and Guilds had plastic pickguards solvent bonded to the top under the lacquer finish. Over time these pick guards shrink and lift sometimes causing cracks. As the guitar ages and settles, the footprint in the finish changes shape rendering production replacements an inexact fit. I resolve this by custom fitting the pickguard to the footprint, bevel the edges, touch up the lacquer around the edges and buff the area so that the new guard blends in very nicely.